A prominent hospitality collective is bringing a major new dining establishment to the San Antonio River Walk as the historic Sítio El Tropicano hotel undergoes a comprehensive property-wide transformation. The upcoming restaurant, named Barberry, is being developed by the acclaimed Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group and is slated to anchor the culinary offerings inside the revitalized riverfront landmark.
Barberry is projected to open its doors to diners in mid- to late November, coinciding with the broader reopening of the 64-year-old lodging facility. Despite the ongoing dust and active construction throughout the premises, the team behind the venture is preparing to launch a dining concept designed to celebrate the surrounding regional heritage through a contemporary gastronomic framework.
The arrival of Barberry adds further momentum to Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group’s expanding footprint in the San Antonio area. The group has already earned high-profile industry distinction for its extensive work at the Pearl development, navigating complex construction and design phases to launch popular concepts like Pullman Market and the Mediterranean restaurant Ladino.
The organization holds significant culinary prestige, marked by multiple Michelin distinctions across its existing establishments. Within the group's portfolio, the Pullman Market venues Nicosi and Isidore have both been awarded a Michelin star, while Pullman’s Mezquite and the nearby Ladino have garnered Michelin Bib Gourmand honors.
Barberry draws its name from the shrub known for producing tart, edible berries. Conceptually, the restaurant is built around the idea of presenting a distinct Texas Hill Country establishment that interprets regional traditions through the specific cultural environment of San Antonio and its surrounding landscapes.
The restaurant's culinary vision and operations are being spearheaded by Evan Allumbaugh, a seasoned California chef serving as the hotel food and beverage director for Emmer & Rye, alongside Tavel Bristol-Joseph. Bristol-Joseph serves as the hospitality group’s chief operating officer and partner, and was the creative force behind the Michelin-starred dessert concept Nicosi.
A central element of Barberry's culinary philosophy is a rigid dedication to localized and regional sourcing. According to the culinary leadership, the kitchen will utilize 100 percent seafood harvested from the Gulf of Mexico, 100 percent land animals raised within Texas, and an assortment of market-driven seasonal produce gathered directly from farms in the San Antonio region.
Early previews of the menu illustrate this regional sourcing philosophy across a variety of diverse plates. Planned dishes include chicken-fried quail, wagyu beef tartare, fresh crab claws, an heirloom tomato salad, a colorful Stetson chopped salad, and a distinct sweet corn pasta preparation known as raviole du Dauphiné, noted for its puffy, cloud-like texture.
The restaurant itself will feature a 140-seat dining room. Upon opening its doors in late autumn, Barberry will initially welcome guests for breakfast and dinner services, while plans for a midday lunch service are slated to be introduced at a later stage of operations.
The beverage side of the establishment has been planned with equal detail to complement the food menu. Alicia Schmidt, the wine director for Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group, is overseeing the curation of the restaurant's dedicated wine list, while Houston Eaves is directing the craft cocktail program.
Barberry stands as the centerpiece of an extensive hospitality program that Emmer & Rye is executing across the entire hotel site. Rather than limiting their scope to a single dining room, the group is overseeing all food and drink options across the 315-room destination.
The broader amenities program includes an artisanal coffee bar and casual cafe, dedicated in-room dining services, customized catering for the private Sítio Club, and specialty refreshments for guests utilizing the hotel's 5,000-square-foot wellness spa. In addition, the group will run an outdoor pool bar featuring its own standalone menu, positioned as an oasis on what is billed as San Antonio's largest hotel pool deck.
The venue housing Barberry carries substantial cultural and architectural history within the city. When it originally debuted in 1962, the hotel was celebrated as the very first hospitality property of its kind along the River Walk, recognizable by its distinctive Vegas-deco style sign.
Over several decades, the location welcomed prominent cultural figures and dignitaries, serving as a destination for President Lyndon B. Johnson, country icon Dolly Parton, and rock legends the Rolling Stones. After gradually fading from the city’s spotlight and eventually shutting down in 2020, the historic structure is now in the final stages of a floor-to-ceiling overhaul directed by the development firm Trestle Studio ahead of its late-year return.
(0)